The pH value measures how acidic or alkaline a solution is, on a scale from 0 (very acidic) to 14 (very alkaline), with 7 being neutral. In hydroponics the pH shows how well your plants can take up nutrients. An optimal pH is essential for healthy, strong plants and a rich harvest.
Important to know: each step is tenfold. pH 5 is ten times more acidic than pH 6, pH 4 already a hundred times. That’s why a few drops are often enough when adjusting.
pH scale: from acidic to alkaline
0
Very acidic
pH 0 to 3
Battery acid
Lemon juice
4
Acidic
pH 4 to 5
Blueberries
Acid rain
5.5
Optimal
pH 5.5 to 6.5
Most plants
Ideal nutrient uptake
Nutrient solution in the tower, my target 5.8
7
Neutral
pH 7
Pure water
Neutral range
a lot of tap water is at 7 to 8
8
Alkaline
pH 8 to 10
Soapy water
Baking soda
11
Very alkaline
pH 11 to 14
Household cleaner
Caustic soda
Visual pH scale
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
◀ AcidicOptimal 5.5 to 6.5, my target 5.8Alkaline ▶
Hydroponics sweet spot
pH 5.5 to 6.5: In this range most nutrients are optimally available. At 5.8 the plant can reach all nutrients well.
Problem ranges
•pH below 5.5: magnesium, calcium and molybdenum deficiency
•pH above 6.5: iron deficiency possible, plus phosphorus, manganese, zinc, copper and boron get scarce
📈Nutrients
Why is the pH value so important in hydroponics?
🌱 Nutrient availability
The pH controls which nutrients are available to the plants. If the pH is outside the optimal range, deficiencies or toxic effects can occur even if all nutrients are present.
So the pH decides whether the plant can reach the nutrients that are in the solution. In the range around 5.8 they’re all well available. If the value drifts, individual nutrients are blocked even though they’re there.
Too low
Below pH 5.5: Risk of magnesium, calcium and molybdenum deficiency. Plants can no longer take up important nutrients, which leads to yellow leaves and weak growth. Iron and manganese, on the other hand, are taken up too strongly. This happens quickly if too much pH down goes into the water at once.
Too high
Above pH 6.5: Risk of iron deficiency. Leaves turn yellow between the veins, growth slows down considerably. Phosphorus, manganese, zinc, copper and boron also become less available. Pale, yellowish young leaves are typical.
If you see deficiency signs, check the pH first. Often it’s just blocking uptake, and more nutrient tends to make things worse.
Why the pH value rises and falls
Lowers the pH
Raises the pH
fresh nutrient (mine lowers it noticeably)
the plant uses up the nutrient
pH down or acid
topping up with limy tap water
air in the water drives out carbonic acid
Tap water is often at pH 7 to 8. Waterworks deliberately keep it above 7 to protect the pipes. Hard water pushes the pH up further, then you need pH down more often.
My own nutrient already lowers the pH when mixing. For me 0.5 ml per litre is enough to lower it by about 0.5, for example from 7.3 to 6.8. The more nutrient, the stronger. Over time the value then slowly rises again. That’s a good sign: when the plant takes up nitrate, it releases alkaline substances into the water. The stronger it grows, the faster the pH rises.
My own nutrient
Frankie’s liquid nutrient
Seedling and leaf nutrient from one bottle, with calcium and magnesium, made for soft water. For all plants from sowing to the growth phase, leafy plants until harvest.
In this range most nutrients are optimally available and the plants can reach their full potential. My target value is 5.8 to 6.0 for almost all plants.
✅Digital display Easy to read, no interpretation needed
✅Calibrate regularly With calibration solutions pH 4.01 and pH 7.00
2. Test strips/indicator solutions
•Cheap and easy Good for a quick, rough overview
•Colour comparison You read the colour against a scale, only in rough steps
•No calibration needed But too imprecise for a target of 5.8
How I measure correctly
Remove the cap and dip the meter into the nutrient solution.
Swirl briefly.
Wait until the number stays still.
Rinse the electrode and put the cap back on, the tip should stay moist.
I always measure at the same time of day, in the tower without a permanent meter every 2 to 3 days, daily for the first days after mixing. And always in this order: first EC, then pH. Every nutrient correction shifts the pH.
Measuring tips
🕒Timing
•Always measure at the same time of day
•Wait approx. 1 hour after feeding
•Measure before refilling
🌡️Temperature
•Ideal: nutrient solution 18 to 24 °C
•Temperature affects the pH value
•Create constant conditions
🧪Procedure
•Rinse the electrode well
•Stir the solution
•Let the value stabilise
My book
Step by step into hydroponics
168 pages, simply explained for beginners and with videos on the topics (in German). Exactly how I grow myself: from sowing to harvest.
Determine the current pH value after the EC is set
2
Adjust
Add pH down or pH up
3
Mix
Stir the nutrient solution well
4
Wait
Let it stabilise for 10 minutes
5
Repeat
Until the target value is reached
Lowering pH (too high)
Use pH down:
▸Phosphoric acid (preferred): Also supplies phosphorus
▸Nitric acid: Also supplies nitrogen
▸Sulphuric acid: For very hard water
Caution: Always add drop by drop! Acids are strong and act fast.
Raising pH (too low)
Dose pH up carefully:
▸Potassium hydroxide: Also supplies potassium
▸Potassium carbonate: Milder alternative
▸Sodium hydroxide: Only in emergencies
Caution: Always add drop by drop! Alkalis are strong and act fast.
Important note
Important note: Use pH adjusters developed specifically for hydroponics to avoid side effects. Household products like vinegar, citric acid or baking soda aren’t suitable because they can cause other problems. Vinegar and citric acid break down quickly in the water, the pH then rises again.
Lowering the pH value: my method
I use phosphoric acid from a small dropper bottle with a nozzle. If the value rises above 6, I add 2 to 3 drops and stay at 5.8. With soft water 2 to 3 drops per 10 litres are enough, hard water needs more. Phosphoric acid keeps the pH stable for a long time.
For beginners a ready-made pH down from the shop is safest, because it’s already diluted. You usually only rarely need pH up. If the value has dropped too far, fresh water usually helps.
Phosphoric acid is corrosive. Wear gloves and safety glasses, always add the acid to water and never the other way round, and keep the bottle out of reach of children.
Pro tips for stable pH values
✅Use small amounts and be patient
✅The pH often keeps rising after the first adjustment
✅With big deviations, take several small steps
✅Keep the water temperature constant (affects pH)
✅Mix the nutrient solution well before measuring
✅Record your adjustments with the date for better control, so you see where it’s heading
From my shop
Everything for your soil-free start
HydroFlex Tower for indoors and outdoors, seedling box, seedling station, support rings and my own nutrient. After you buy, I’ll help you on WhatsApp.
For bigger systems there’s automatic measuring and control technology (“nutrient controllers”) that monitors the pH around the clock and adjusts it automatically when needed. For a tower at home, a pen or a permanent monitor in the reservoir that shows the value constantly is enough.
Benefits:
✅24/7 monitoring
✅Automatic adjustment
✅Constant values
✅Less work
Disadvantages:
⚠️High purchase costs
⚠️Maintenance required
⚠️Technical understanding needed
⚠️Depends on electricity
✅Checklist
Tips for stable pH values
What you should do
✅Quality nutrients: Use hydroponic-specific nutrients for stable pH values
✅Regular checks: Measure every 2 to 3 days, daily after mixing and especially when changing systems
✅Calibration: Calibrate and look after the pH meter regularly
✅Cleanliness: Keep the nutrient solution clean, avoid algae
✅Order: first EC, then pH
What you should avoid
❌Adjusting too fast: Always go step by step
❌Uncalibrated meters: Lead to wrong values
❌Wrong nutrients: Only use products suitable for hydroponics
❌Ignoring temperature: Measure at a constant temperature
Phosphoric acid for lowering. I decant it into a small dropper bottle with nozzle. Corrosive, store safely.
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My meter for pH, EC and temperature in one pen, with app.
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Calibration solution pH 4 and 7 for monthly calibration.
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* Affiliate links: I earn a commission if you buy, your price stays the same.
My recommendation for getting started
5-in-1 meter for pH, EC, TDS and temperature
Affordable, easy to use and perfectly adequate for beginners.
The pH value is one of the most important factors for successful hydroponics. With regular checks, quality meters and step-by-step adjustments you create ideal conditions for your plants. Invest in a good pH meter and calibrate it regularly: it’s the basis for healthy, productive plants. I keep my value at 5.8 and always set the EC first, then the pH.
FAQ about the pH value
Which pH value is ideal for hydroponics?
For almost all plants the good range is between 5.5 and 6.5. I set my nutrient solution to 5.8. That’s where the plant can reach all nutrients well.
Why does the pH value rise in the nutrient solution?
The plant uses up the nutrient, limy tap water comes in when topping up and air in the water drives out carbonic acid. A slowly rising pH is completely normal.
What’s the best way to lower the pH?
For beginners a ready-made pH down is safest. I use phosphoric acid from a dropper bottle myself, 2 to 3 drops per 10 litres are enough with soft water.
Can I use vinegar or citric acid?
Better not. Both break down quickly in the water, the pH then rises again. Phosphoric acid or ready-made pH down last much longer.
What happens at a pH below 5.5?
Calcium, magnesium and molybdenum get scarce, iron and manganese are taken up too strongly. In that case add fresh water instead of correcting further.
What happens at a pH above 6.5?
Iron and some trace elements become less available. The young leaves turn pale. Lower the value drop by drop back into the range around 5.8.
Should I set the pH or the EC first?
Always the EC first, then the pH. Every addition of nutrient shifts the pH, so the pH comes last.
How often do I need to measure the pH value?
In the tower without a permanent meter every 2 to 3 days, ideally always at the same time of day. After mixing, measure daily for the first days. With a monitor in the reservoir you have the value in view all the time.
How often do I need to calibrate the pH meter?
At least once a month with buffer solution pH 7.0 and pH 4.0, more often with heavy use, for example every 2 weeks.
Do I need pH up?
Only rarely. With soft water and lots of nutrient the value can drop too far. Then fresh water usually helps.
Are test strips enough for measuring pH?
For a rough overview yes. They only show the value in rough steps via a colour comparison. To hit 5.8 exactly, better use a digital pH meter.
Which acid is best for lowering the pH?
Phosphoric acid, because it also supplies phosphorus and keeps the pH stable for a long time. Nitric acid supplies nitrogen, sulphuric acid tends to be used with very hard water.
What do I use to raise the pH?
A pH up based on potassium hydroxide or potassium carbonate, drop by drop. Sodium hydroxide only in emergencies, because sodium stresses the plants.
What is a nutrient controller?
A device that measures pH and EC around the clock and automatically adjusts when needed. It’s mainly worth it for bigger systems, but costs more and needs maintenance.
Do pH values from soil also apply to hydroponics?
No. In soil the ground buffers, in hydroponics it doesn’t. That’s why the good range in hydroponics is lower, at 5.5 to 6.5.